Even though Hong Kong is part of China, we didn’t feel like we’d truly experienced China until we crossed the border. We took the super-efficient metro from downtown Hong Kong to Shenzhen. It’s a place known for knock-off purses, shoes, and clothes, so we didn’t intend to spend much time there.
After some minor hassles and searching for a place to buy bus tickets, a helpful security guard led us to a ticket stand. The lady quoted us 320 RMB (about $50) for a ticket to Yangshuo, emphasizing that the May holiday in China caused the high price and that the guard gets a commission. Shocked by the price, we moved to the next booth and snagged tickets for 260 RMB, avoiding the commission.
Our overnight bus arrived around 7:00 pm. It reminded us of the ones we used in Laos and Vietnam but slightly better. We lucked out with ground-level beds just long enough for us to lay down with our legs bent into the aisle. I felt sorry for those on the upper bunk, held in only by a seatbelt as we hit bumps during the night.
We arrived in Yangshuo at 5:30 am during a torrential downpour. We thought, “Great, just like the Philippines.” We checked into our home-stay, Yangshuo Culture House, and crashed in a nice room. Waking up five hours later, the sun was shining, a pattern that continued for the next three nights.
Our home-stay was fantastic, located just outside of town in a quaint alleyway. Locals played cards and drank tea while kids zipped by on bikes, and beautiful red lanterns adorned the homes. The owner, Wei, and his family were very friendly and served us three home-cooked meals every day.
Breakfast was simple with toast and an assortment of fruits like mango, banana, Chinese apple, and oranges. Though we missed lunch, dinner was a feast of various Chinese dishes: sweet and sour chicken, grilled stuffed peppers with pork, sautéed snow peas with garlic and ginger, stir-fried beef with peppers and onions, and perfectly cooked pumpkin, among others. Everyone sat around, chatting and picking from the communal dishes with chopsticks. We eagerly looked forward to these dinners each night.
Besides the delicious food, Yangshuo’s countryside was the main attraction. This area of Guangxi province is famous for its stunning landscapes filled with limestone karsts. Unlike those seen in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and the Philippines, we had never seen so many in one place.
To explore the countryside and the karsts up close, we rented bicycles. With a basic map, we rode along the Yulong River, through farmland, small villages, passed men fishing along the banks, and along quiet back roads. After about 3.5 hours, exhausted and overheated in the 30-degree weather, we returned to town, downed some Gatorades, and took an afternoon nap. It was a fantastic start to our time in Yangshuo.
The second day, we repeated our bike adventure but aimed for tourist spots like Moon Hill and the Banyon Tree. The roads were packed with local tourist traffic due to the holiday, and we navigated through it, ringing our handlebar bells constantly! The Banyon Tree, standing 17 meters high with a trunk 7 meters around, is over 1400 years old and set in a park by the Jinbao River.
We cooled off in the river and had our photo taken by curious locals. The people in Yangshuo were very friendly and eager to help despite language barriers. After our break, we biked to Moon Hill, parked, and after a hot, sweaty climb of 800 rock-cut stairs, were rewarded with fantastic views of karsts and villages. Our descent was much easier, and we had a delightful lunch of steamed and fried pork dumplings dipped in soy and chili sauce.
On our final day, we kept our routine: a fresh breakfast, bikes, and off we went. We headed towards the Li River and the village of Fuli. This ride was the best yet with minimal traffic, stunning scenery, and kind villagers. We stopped at a riverside café to cool down before continuing, eventually getting a bit lost but enjoying the detour through rural villages. We saw women panning for snails and water buffalos lounging in the river, adding to the charm of our day.
We took a ferry to Fuli, known for its handmade fans. The lanes were lined with shops where artisans painted silk fans, a skill passed down through generations. After browsing, we returned to Yangshuo in time for our homemade dinner.
That night, we met Jeanette and Nic, a couple from England who had been traveling for three years, half of which was spent cycling across countries. Their positivity and laid-back attitude were inspiring.
The next morning, we reluctantly left our warm bed and took a local bus for the one-hour journey to the city of Guilin.