As we enjoyed our final quesadillas and Coronas at a bustling Mexican restaurant, a wave of sadness washed over us. Our two-month stay in Mexico had been everything we wanted—relaxing and rejuvenating. However, we hadn’t anticipated feeling this down about leaving. As we savored our last delicious Mexican meal and made our way to the Chetumal pier, the intense sun soon melted away our melancholy, and excitement for our next destination, Belize, took over.
When we reached the windy dock, we faced some unexpected fees. There was a $5 USD “port fee” and a $25 USD fee (306 pesos) for exiting the country. The somewhat friendly immigration officers informed us that if we had flown into Mexico, these fees would have been included in our ticket price. While we did fly into Mexico, we didn’t have the proof that we had already paid this “tourist” fee. There’s officially no fee for exiting Mexico, and our flight should have been proof enough.
This is a border scam where you either have to pay the fee or be prepared with the flight cost breakdown provided by your airline. Without the right documents, you might end up missing your boat.
As we rummaged through our papers, we found our boarding pass and printed itinerary and hoped they would suffice. When our turn came, the border patrol dismissed our documents as incorrect. After about 30 minutes of talking, smiling, pleading, and being overly polite, they finally waived the fee!
Due to these delays, we were the last to board the San Pedro Belize Express Boat from Chetumal to Caye Caulker. The small boat was packed, with only hard benches for seating. Knowing our tendency to get seasick, we hoped we wouldn’t have to sit at the front of the boat. Luckily, we found spots on a middle bench and braced ourselves for the bumpy ride ahead.
The water was unusually rough that day. Despite the bright, sunny weather, the sea was turbulent. Initially, people at the front of the boat were laughing and enjoying the intense ups and downs, but their smiles soon turned to frowns and their faces turned green.
To make the best of the 2-hour ride, we listened to our iPod and tried to talk, though the loud engine made it nearly impossible. We placed life jackets under us to alleviate the discomfort of the hard benches and wiggled around to stretch our legs.
After a little over two hours, we saw land and our excitement grew. The boat passed over the offshore reef, calming the waters instantly. We all cheered as it meant we could finally stand up. We arrived at Ambergris Caye, the immigration point for the Northern Cayes.
Disembarking onto the wooden pier, we knew we’d arrive at our final destination, Caye Caulker, in the dark. As we waited in line, we checked our exit stamps from Mexico. Nick found his, but I couldn’t find mine. Eventually, I realized—Mexican Immigration forgot to stamp me out!
In our four years of travel, this had never happened. Nervously, we waited to see if the grumpy immigration officer would send me back to Mexico. Fortunately, she was too busy reprimanding a tourist and didn’t even look at my passport, simply stamping it and handing it back.
Phew! Note to self: Always check for entry and exit stamps.
By the time everyone had checked into Belize, it was 7:00 PM and dark. We boarded the ferry again and enjoyed a calm, moonlit, 30-minute ride to Caye Caulker. As soon as we walked onto the soft sand, greeted by Reggae music from beach bars, we knew this was a place we’d want to stay for a while.