As we enjoyed our final quesadillas and Coronas at a vibrant Mexican restaurant, a wave of sadness washed over us. Our two months in Mexico had been everything we needed—relaxing and rejuvenating—but we weren’t prepared for how hard it would be to say goodbye to this colorful country. We reminisced about our time here while savoring our last meal. Heading towards the Chetumal pier, our sadness was soon replaced by excitement for our next adventure in Belize.
Upon arriving at the windy dock, we were met with unexpected fees. There was a $5 USD port fee and a $25 USD exit fee (306 pesos). The friendly immigration officers informed us that if we had flown into Mexico, this fee would have been included in our airfare. While we had indeed flown in, we didn’t have the necessary paperwork to prove it. Officially, there is no fee for exiting Mexico, and our flight should have served as proof that the fee was paid.
This border scam leaves you with two options: pay the fee or present the correct flight cost breakdown from your airline. Otherwise, you risk being left at the dock. We searched through our documents and found our boarding pass and printed itinerary, hoping they would suffice. When our turn came, we presented these papers, which were immediately deemed incorrect. After about 30 minutes of discussion, smiles, and politeness, we managed to get the fee waived.
Due to these border issues, we were the last to board the San Pedro Belize Express Boat from Chetumal to Caye Caulker. The small boat had no proper seats, just hard benches. Knowing I tend to get nauseous, we hoped to avoid sitting at the front. Fortunately, we found two spots on the middle bench and braced ourselves for a bumpy ride.
The sea was unusually choppy, despite the clear, sunny sky. The first 10 minutes were filled with laughter as the boat jolted with each wave, but soon those smiles turned to frowns and happy faces turned green. We tried to make the most of the two-hour ride by listening to our iPod and placing life jackets under us to ease the discomfort. Standing to stretch wasn’t an option, so we wiggled and stretched our legs under the seats.
After over two hours, we saw land and excitement built up. The waters calmed as we passed over the offshore reef, and everyone cheered as we finally stood up. We had arrived at Ambergris Caye, where immigration for the Northern Cayes is located.
We eagerly stepped onto the wooden pier jutting into turquoise waters. With the sun setting, we knew we’d reach Caye Caulker in the dark. As we waited in line, we checked our exit stamps from Mexico. Nick found his, but I couldn’t find mine. It turned out that Mexican Immigration had forgotten to stamp me out of the country!
In four years of travel, this had never happened. Nervously, we waited to see if the grumpy immigration officer would send me back. Fortunately, she was too preoccupied to notice, stamping my passport without looking.
By the time everyone had checked into Belize, it was 7:00 pm and dark. We reboarded the ferry and enjoyed a calm, moonlit 30-minute ride to Caye Caulker. Greeted by Reggae music from beach bars and soft sand underfoot, we immediately felt this was a place we’d want to stay for a while.