While traveling through Colombia for five weeks, we repeatedly heard that Cartagena was nice but too touristy. This didn’t excite us much as we generally prefer off-the-beaten-path destinations. Yet, we eventually made our way to this colonial town by the sea.
We landed at Rafael Núñez airport around 8:00 PM and took a prepaid taxi (13,500 COP) to the Gistemaní neighborhood, near the old town. As we sped down the Santander highway, we couldn’t see what the fuss was about. On one side were dark sand beaches, far from the Caribbean paradise we imagined, and on the other side, a sprawling city full of high-rises competing for ocean views.
But once we entered the old town’s walls, everything changed. Pastel buildings glowed under antique lanterns, giving the area a charming, historic feel.
At night, the old town buzzed with life. Backpackers and bar hoppers filled the streets, parting as our taxi passed. The city’s unique energy was evident even in the dim light. We got dropped off at our hostel on Calle 30, still hearing the street’s clamor and music as we walked in.
Looking around the noisy hostel, we doubted our choice of accommodation. The owner seemed puzzled, perhaps thinking we were too old for such a lively place. It turned out, they had lost our reservation. After a delayed flight, the last thing we wanted was to search for another hotel.
Fortunately, the owner felt bad and helped us find a room for the night, though most options available were musky and outdated. Meanwhile, Dariece found a place on Booking.com, and the hostel owner kindly walked us to our new spot. Patio del Gistemaní was just a couple of blocks away, quieter, and had much better rooms at the same price.
The family who ran the hotel welcomed us warmly. Our room had a king-size bed and a modern bathroom, making us glad the hostel had double-booked. The next day, we eagerly set out to explore Cartagena. Sometimes, a city just clicks with you, and this was the case for us. Cartagena reminded us of Havana, Cuba — another favorite of ours.
Over the next ten days, we discovered more to love about Cartagena. The city is indeed touristy, but its beauty and charm make it understandable. There are many things to do here to keep a traveler entertained. Narrow cobblestone streets, lined with colorful colonial buildings, formed a maze that was delightful to wander through.
Street vendors loudly advertised their fresh bananas and cold lemonade, while brightly colored buildings with wrought-iron balconies and lush vegetation provided much-needed shade. These streets often opened into bustling plazas, full of locals, tourists, street performers, and children.
Despite the crowds, we always found new and quieter spots, romantic restaurants, and hidden corners to explore. One day, we caught a taxi (12,000 COP) to Morros Beach to meet friends. During the day, the dark sand beaches looked more appealing than they had at night. Though not the white sands of typical Caribbean beaches, we had a great time under a large canopy, enjoying cold beers and safe swimming conditions.
From the beach, the modern part of Cartagena still didn’t impress, but the sunset over the Caribbean was spectacular. Cartagena quickly became a potential spot for us to set up as digital nomads.
We also visited Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, a fortress with views highlighting the stark contrasts within Cartagena, from poor neighborhoods to modern high-rises to the historic old town. The juxtaposition underscored Colombia’s ongoing challenges and its efforts to emerge from a troubled past.
At night, we often found ourselves at romantic restaurants with tables spilling into stone-floored plazas. The atmosphere was always lively, with impromptu music sessions and good food. Street musicians performed for tips, adding to the vibrant nightlife.
One evening, we experienced Cartagena’s nightlife at Havana Bar, famous for its live music and energetic vibe. Despite it being a tourist hotspot, the mix of locals and visitors filled the place with an infectious energy.
Cartagena’s mix of tourists and locals makes it one of the most charming cities. It has a beautiful old town, swimmable nearby beaches, and a bustling city center with modern amenities and events year-round. We hope to return one day, perhaps renting an apartment and staying for a few months. Cartagena cast a spell on us as it does on so many, and we can’t wait to go back.