From Stellenbosch, we made our way to Hermanus, a town renowned as “The best place in the world for land-based whale watching.” The drive was along the scenic Route 44 coastal road, and every time Dariece or I saw any movement in the water, we would excitedly stop the car and get out, hoping to see whales, only to realize it was a rock or boat.
When we finally got to Hermanus, the sun was setting, so we went for a walk along the path that follows the rocky coast on the edge of town before checking into Zoete Inval Traveller’s Lodge. Many backpackers in South Africa are just houses converted into hotels, creating a friendly, communal atmosphere. These places often have shared kitchens, living rooms with TVs, and fire pits outside. This particular lodge even had a jacuzzi, although it was out of order during our stay. That evening, we relaxed with other travelers in the living room, watching TV until about 10 pm, and then went to bed.
The next morning, we woke up at around 7:30, eager to see some whales. After a quick breakfast and saying goodbye to other travelers, we headed to the rocky coastal paths. Our visit coincided with the annual whale migration, where hundreds of Southern Right Whales and Humpbacks travel to calve in the warmer shallow waters off South Africa. We planned to walk the 16 km whale watching path but found a perfect vantage point on a huge boulder overlooking the two bays in Hermanus harbor.
About 30 minutes later, we spotted our first whale in the distance—a big Southern Right Whale splashing its tail. Thanks to our camera’s 30X zoom, we could see it clearly. While most sightings were far off, they were still captivating. We spent about two hours watching from our perch, even fetching some wine to enjoy while waiting. Finally, around 2:00 pm, the whales came closer until they were just 50 feet from the shore, breaching and splashing their massive tails. We saw them so clearly that we could even see the barnacles on their noses and the scratches on their skin. A pod of about 100 dolphins also made a distant appearance. Hermanus also has a unique whale spotting guide who blows a massive horn whenever he sees a whale, which helped us know when to look toward the ocean. We took many pictures and videos until our camera died after hours of zooming in and out.
We wished we could have stayed in Hermanus longer, but we needed to keep moving. South Africa is packed with so many incredible sights that you could spend months traveling through the country. Our next destination was Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of Africa where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. We stopped for a picture and appreciated the view before continuing.
Next, we headed to Robertson, at the start of Route 62, the longest wine route in the world, boasting 49 wineries around the town. We checked into Robertson Backpackers, a cozy place that felt like home, and then drove to Montagu to visit a natural hot spring. We watched the sunset while relaxing in the springs before returning.
Kevin and Linda, the owners, had transformed their home into a backpackers’ lodge with six lovely rooms and a dorm. They created a “Moroccan room,” a cool hangout with a Middle Eastern vibe, perfect for chilling with a drink from their bar. The atmosphere was so inviting with a warm fire and nice music that we couldn’t resist joining the party, talking about everything from travel to profound topics like the creation of the planet with the friendly locals. South Africans are incredibly easygoing, and we found instant friendships everywhere because there’s no language barrier. We stayed up until 2 am, the latest we had on the trip.
The next day, we embarked on a wine tour, starting with a visit to a local cheese factory to stock up for our picnic lunch. The first winery was our favorite, set right on a river. We had our tasting, then sat on the lawn enjoying our picnic with the river in front and rows of vines behind us. It was a stunning spot. After packing up, we visited three more wineries. While the second and third were fairly standard, the fourth was breathtaking, set by a small pond with an old Dutch-style house covered in vines and moss. The tasting room had one wall of stacked bottles and another of barrels, with a view of the pond and vineyard outside.
After our wine tasting, we took a scenic drive through valleys, flowers, vineyards, grassy hills, and rocky mountains. The road we chose was exceptionally beautiful, and we stayed on it until it ended at a farm gravel road before turning back.