As soon as we docked at the tiny wooden pier, I asked, “Where do we stamp into the country?” The captain simply replied, “At the airport.” It seemed odd since we had arrived by boat, not by air! But in the Caribbean, things tend to be pretty laid back, including customs and immigration. After waiting on the roadside for a minibus, we eventually made our way to the airport to complete our check-in process on Union, the southernmost island in St. Vincent and The Grenadines.
When we reached Kings Landing Hotel, we were warmly welcomed by a friendly woman and the owner, who amusingly resembled Kanye West. Our sea view bungalow was just steps away from the water, offering a fantastic view of Clifton Harbor, kite surfers, and Happy Island—a man-made island with nothing but a bar (stay tuned for more about this happy place!)
Union Island had a vibrant and funky atmosphere. The locals were incredibly warm and welcoming. It quickly became clear that Union Island isn’t a hot tourist spot, which was part of its charm for us. Buildings were a bit run-down with colorful paint peeling off, dogs roamed the streets confidently, and people casually enjoyed drinks and smoked pot at all hours. Occasionally, you’d even see a local shouting random obscenities!
Right from the get-go, we felt a connection with Union Island. It wasn’t putting on a show for tourists; it was authentic, rugged, unpretentious, and oozing Caribbean vibes. We got to know several locals at nearby shops and restaurants; we always bought our mangoes, avocados, and bananas from Sam, a cheerful roadside vendor. Unlike the more commercial fruit market (often referred to as the “rip-off market”), Sam gave us local prices and always greeted us with a big smile.
Another local, Joy, set up a BBQ every Friday and Saturday night. She served us a massive plate of chicken with three different salads, along with her homemade passionfruit or soursop juice. She even went out of her way to open her BBQ just for us and our two Canadian friends on her day off. When we arrived for dinner, the table was set for four with placemats, utensils, cups, and napkins—we felt like VIPs. Thanks, Joy!
We also enjoyed the company of the staff at Kings Landing Hotel, Barracuda Restaurant, and Yacht Provisions Cafe. It was a pleasure to start each day with friendly faces and continue to receive smiling service throughout our stay.
But it wasn’t just the people who made our trip special; the sights and scenery were stunning too. We’d heard about Chatham Bay, a local hangout, and decided to check it out. We hopped on an old, noisy golf cart that took us from Clifton to the start of a jungle path. Determined to get some exercise, we hiked down to the beach. The trail was lush and green, reminding us of hikes we had done in Grenada. At the end, we were welcomed by a few rum shacks, a restaurant, and a beautiful stretch of golden sand.
Our days were filled with good company from our new Canadian friends, Andy and his daughter Dakota. We spent time relaxing on gorgeous white sand beaches, exploring the town, and indulging in authentic Italian pizza.
In just eight days, we explored almost every inch of this tiny island, home to only about 3,000 people. Despite its small size (roughly 5 km by 1.5 km), we never found ourselves bored. Its location, just 90 km southwest of Barbados, 10 km from the famous Tobago Cays, and in sight of Carriacou and Grenada, makes Union Island an ideal base for exploring the southern Caribbean. And explore we did!
Stay tuned to hear about the Caribbean’s coolest bar and our day sailing through the picturesque Tobago Cays!
Where to Sleep:
We stayed at Kings Landing Hotel and loved our seaside bungalow. The property is currently undergoing renovations to improve its facilities. The hotel offers a pool, sea view, fantastic staff, and a restaurant. Rooms range from $126 to $200 USD. Once renovations are complete, the owner plans to offer various package deals that include meals, drinks, and tours. For more information, contact Marius at info@kingslandinghotel.com.
Where to Eat:
1. Barracuda Restaurant (Italian-owned and operated), located on the waterfront next to the main ferry pier at Clifton. Pizzas start at $25 EC and pastas at $35 EC.
2. Sparrow’s Beach Bar (French-owned). Your hotel can contact them, and they will provide free pick-up and drop-off services. The beach here is gorgeous. Beers cost $7 EC, burgers range from $20 to $30 EC, and main dishes start at $35 EC. Lounge chairs are free if you dine there, and there’s an outdoor shower.
3. Captain Gourmet Yacht Provisions (French-owned and operated), a shop and cafe mainly for those stocking up on provisions for their boat. Located in the center of town next to the fruit market, the cafe serves strong coffees for $8 EC and breakfasts starting at $10 EC, along with other snacks.
4. Joy’s BBQ (locally owned and operated), a few steps from Kings Landing Hotel. This local gem whips up delicious BBQ meals on Fridays and Saturdays, including chicken, pork tail, ribs, or fish with three different salads for $18 EC. Joy also bottles fresh fruit juice for $5 EC, complete with her own labels.
5. Aqua Restaurant (Italian-owned), located right on the beach at Chatham Bay. Call ahead for a pick-up, or take a boat over to the bay. The restaurant/bar is stunning. Beers are $10 EC, chicken roti $30 EC, and main dishes start at $50 EC.
A special thanks to Marius and the staff at Kings Landing Hotel for hosting us during our stay on Union Island. As always, all thoughts, opinions, and reviews are our own.