Lake Atitlán in Guatemala has long been a favorite spot for hippies, backpackers, expats, and travelers. After spending two months there in early 2015, we can definitely see why it’s so captivating and hard to leave.
Known as Lago de Atitlán in Spanish, it’s the deepest lake in Central America and is surrounded by three towering volcanoes – Tolimán, San Pedro, and Atitlán. While many Mayan villages are around the lake, just a few cater to visitors and potential long-term residents.
First, let’s talk about Panajachel, the most popular backpacker village. It’s the main entry point if you’re coming from Mexico, Antigua, or Guatemala City. Panajachel, or Pana for short, is a lively and dusty village with many tourists and bustling streets. It has the largest grocery store, “Sandy’s” supermarket stocked with Western items, numerous tour agencies, hotels, restaurants, bars, and affordable Guatemalan handicrafts. While it’s worth a visit, taking a lancha (taxi boat) to explore some of the surrounding, more authentic villages is a must.
To the north of the lake is the village of Solola, while most other interesting villages are to the west.
Panajachel highlights include kayaking, bar-hopping, day trips to nearby villages, visiting Saint Francis Church, taking Spanish lessons, and exploring the market. Expect lots of tourists, busy streets, a mix of foreigners and locals, and stunning views of all three volcanoes. However, it’s not ideal for swimming, and you should use the ATMs and stock up on groceries here.
A short 10-minute boat ride from Pana brings you to Santa Cruz. We lived in a suburb called Paxanax for two months and loved it. Santa Cruz is our favorite village due to its secluded and tranquil atmosphere, thanks to its lack of road access. Bamboo platforms raised on stilts create a unique walkway along the shoreline. The village offers good swimming, impressive CECAP programs, and a Spanish school. Don’t miss the stunning views from the top of Santa Cruz hill.
In Santa Cruz, you can enjoy scuba diving, hanging out at La Iguana Perdida hotel, wholesome food at Hotel Isla Verde, the Saturday morning market, and other activities. This quiet village has no ATMs or grocery stores, so stock up beforehand.
San Marcos is famous for its spiritual and holistic offerings like healings, meditation, yoga, and massages. It’s also one of the lake’s most beautiful villages, with narrow pathways meandering through lush greenery. The swimming here is good, with spots for jumping off rocks. San Marcos is also known for its healthy, albeit expensive food, and a couple of small shops and local produce vendors.
In San Marcos, you can practice yoga, meditation, massage or reiki, attend spiritual gatherings, go swimming, volunteer, hike, or take day trips to San Pedro. Expect a peaceful vibe, lush surroundings, and good restaurants but no bars. There’s no ATM here, and walking between San Marcos and San Pedro is unsafe due to frequent robberies.
San Juan is often overlooked by tourists, which is unfortunate. It’s not as busy as other villages, but it’s serene and peaceful with friendly locals and lovely views. You can easily walk or take a tuk-tuk to San Pedro from here. The village has only a couple of places to eat and stay, but Hotel Uxlabil comes recommended.
In San Juan, you can wander around, visit the church, take day trips to San Pedro, and relax. Expect very few tourists and an authentic feel. There are no ATMs, and the swimming isn’t good here.
San Pedro is the budget backpacker hangout on the lake. It has a direct road out and a great vibe. The main road along the shoreline has all the backpacker necessities: shops, tour agencies, restaurants, bars, and hostels. Beyond a steep hill lies the area where locals live, which is worth exploring.
San Pedro offers plenty of activities – hammock lounging, bar visits, learning about coffee, buying artisan goods, learning Spanish, and trekking volcanoes. If you have limited time, this is the village we recommend as it has something for everyone.
San Pedro highlights include day trips to San Marcos, visiting the church and local produce market, hanging out by the water, sampling nightlife, learning about coffee, and hiking the San Pedro Volcano and Indian Nose lookout. Expect lots of backpackers, a busy village, many dining options, friendly locals, and beautiful views.
Jaibalito, though often skipped by travelers, deserves a mention. It’s a few minutes west of Santa Cruz and accessible by a mountain trail or quick boat ride. With few residents and tourists, the village hosts a few expats, friendly locals, and some hotels. Highlights include the Wednesday Jaibalito Market and drinks on Le Casa del Mundo’s patio.
Lastly, Santiago Atitlán is the most populous village on the lake, mainly inhabited by Tz’utujil Maya. Located south of the lake, between the Tolimán and San Pedro Volcanoes, it’s a traditional, authentic village worth visiting any day, especially on market days (Friday and Sunday).
Overall, whichever village you decide to visit on Lake Atitlán, you’re bound to be impressed by the stunning volcanoes, local Mayan culture, and the serene lake. Each village offers unique experiences, making it a remarkable and unique destination.
Cost of Main Boat Rides:
Panajachel to Santa Cruz – 10Q ($1.67)
Panajachel to San Marcos – 15Q ($2.50)
Panajachel to San Pedro – 25Q ($4)
San Pedro to San Marcos – 10Q ($1.67)
San Pedro to Santa Cruz – 15Q ($2.50)
Dangers:
Some areas aren’t safe for walking. Consult with locals before trekking between villages. Generally, each village is safe during the day, but the paths are known for robberies and muggings. Be cautious of stray dogs at night.
Annoyances:
Boat drivers have an “official” tourist rate for boat rides, often listed on signs in San Pedro. Use a price guide to avoid being overcharged.