Sanliurfa is a charming city in Eastern Turkey with lots to explore. However, Turkey is vast, so we had to move quickly to cover more ground and see more sights. Instead of spending day 3 in Sanliurfa, we took a two-hour minibus ride to the small village of Harran.
As soon as we arrived in this dusty desert village, the first thing we noticed was the intense heat—over 40 degrees that day. Despite the oppressive heat, we pressed on. Harran has a long history, possibly being one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, about 5000 years old. It’s also known for its unique beehive-shaped houses made from desert mud and camel dung.
As we started our hot, sweaty hike over the hill, we saw hundreds of these little homes scattered in small communities across the desert floor. We headed to the village’s castle, or Kale, which is over 1000 years old. Despite its crumbling walls, the Kale still retains some ancient grandeur. We wandered through the maze of large rooms and halls inside the deteriorating structure and enjoyed the panoramic views of the area.
Due to Turkey’s new water dam projects, what was once dry desert is now lush farmland. This has improved the lives of the villagers, who now have modern amenities like LCD TVs in their beehive homes. Unfortunately, these dams also have negative impacts on ecosystems and ancient sites. Harran is at risk, and other monuments and villages have already been submerged.
After visiting the Kale, we went to see a beehive settlement open to visitors. On the way, a local woman with six or seven kids invited us into her authentic beehive house. She saw us taking pictures of her turkeys—yes, turkeys in Turkey—and called us over. She excitedly welcomed us, insisting we hold her baby and asked in broken English how many children we had. We politely declined, explaining our child-free lifestyle, and then headed to the tourist hives.
Surprisingly, the inside of the beehive homes was much cooler than the desert heat outside. We met some young locals who were sitting in a circle, drinking tea, and singing traditional Turkish songs. We joined them, listened to their music, and chatted in broken English. They were all teachers at a nearby school and aged between 23 to 29. They asked us to sing songs from our country, but we didn’t think Celine Dion or Bryan Adams would be suitable.
This was another memorable moment in our backpacking journey. There’s nothing better than enjoying the company of locals, even if you don’t speak the same language.
After more tea and music, they invited us to join them in touring Harran and offered to drive us back to Sanliurfa. We gratefully accepted. When we went to pay for our drinks, they insisted on covering the bill. Their generosity amazed us. We visited the ancient ruined mosque of Harran, which was just a thousand-year-old tower of bricks.
Later, we all hopped into their old car for the hour-long drive back to Sanliurfa. We talked and laughed along the way, and we bought them chocolate bars to say thanks for the ride and because we really wanted some. They then took us to their favorite kebab shop for lunch. Again, they refused to let us pay, showing the incredible hospitality of Turkish people.
After lunch, we strolled through a beautiful park in the center of Sanliurfa, surrounded by towering mosques and huge acacia trees. We ordered some water, watched the huge “sacred carp” swim under the bridges, and soaked in the atmosphere. Exhausted from the day’s heat, we exchanged goodbyes, phone numbers, and emails with our new friends, who we’ve since added on Facebook.
Despite the language barrier, our conversations were never dull. We shared stories about our travels while learning about their lives. It was refreshing to meet locals who genuinely wanted to befriend us and share their culture, a rarity in some other regions we’ve visited.
The hospitality in Turkey, especially in the east, is overwhelming. The people in this region truly care about their guests’ well-being. They offer tea while you wait for buses, help you if you’re wandering aimlessly, and invite you into their homes to share food and drink.
The perception of the Middle East as a war-torn land filled with hostility is far from the truth. While there are conflicts and extremist groups, the majority of people we met were among the most honest, generous, and kind we’ve encountered. This extraordinary hospitality, more than the ancient sights, beaches, or food, stands out in our minds. Backpacking through Turkey has been an unforgettable experience, filled with warmth and generosity that will surely bring us back someday.