During our two-day stay in Bogotá, we heard the phrase “No dar papaya” countless times. This popular Colombian saying, which literally translates to “Don’t give papaya,” essentially means “Don’t make yourself an easy target for theft.” We were particularly cautious in Bogotá, spurred on by reminders from our hotel receptionist, local friends, and several Uber drivers to keep an eye on our belongings.
Despite all the warnings, we found Bogotá to be a fascinating city, rich in culture with plenty to explore. We opted to stay in the trendy area of Chapinero instead of the historic La Candelaria district, renowned for its budget hostels but also stories of theft and other issues.
Previously, while visiting Salento’s coffee region, we met Andres and Carlos, locals from Bogotá who had invited us to reconnect when we arrived in their city. So, we reached out via WhatsApp and arranged to meet. Andres’s house was conveniently just a short walk from our hotel, and within minutes, he was by our side, eager to show us around.
Traveling with locals offers the best experience, and Andres and Carlos were no exception. They first took us to a cozy pub with craft beers, where we sampled honey and ginger beers. We then joined their friends for dinner at an Italian restaurant. The evening was filled with good food, engaging conversation, and lots of red wine. It felt great to be part of their circle for a night.
Our next day started with a trip to Bogotá’s old town, La Candelaria, a captivating place despite our preference for staying in Chapinero. We visited the Gold Museum, which boasts the largest collection of pre-Colombian gold and other metals. The cobblestone streets led us to beautiful sites like the candy-cane striped El Carmen Church, the expansive Plaza de Bolivar, and one of Colombia’s largest churches, La Catedral Primida.
We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at La Puerta Falsa restaurant, famous for traditional Bogotá dishes such as Ajiaco, Chocolate con Queso, and Tamales. Ajiaco is a hearty soup comprising chicken, potatoes, and corn, served with sides like avocado, rice, sour cream, and capers. The hot soup was perfect for Bogotá’s high altitude. The Chocolate con Queso, though an odd combination of hot chocolate with cheese, was surprisingly tasty. The tamales, too, were the best we’ve had.
After lunch, we headed to Parque de los Periodistas to join a free street art tour. To our surprise, over 60 people showed up for the tour, making it feel crowded. Despite the large group, the tour was insightful, highlighting the political and social messages embedded in Bogotá’s vibrant street art.
A notable story from the tour was about how Justin Bieber unintentionally sparked a movement in 2013. After a concert in Bogotá, he painted a Canadian flag with a marijuana leaf, escorted by the police. This incident prompted local artists to assert their rights, leading to a massive, impromptu street art session that transformed a 40-meter wall into an art gallery.
Although the large group made maneuvering through the streets somewhat awkward, the tour was worthwhile. The colorful murals and street art breathed life into otherwise drab neighborhoods.
Overall, we loved the old town’s charm, the excellent dining options, and our night out with friends. However, the constant need to be cautious and take taxis or Ubers rather than walk, due to safety concerns, was a bit bothersome. That said, Bogotá is a city worth visiting, with plenty of incredible sites, concert venues, football games, and Spanish language courses to enjoy. If you stay mindful of your surroundings and belongings, you should have a great time.
(Note: Our stay, food, and activities in Bogotá were self-funded, and we wanted to share our genuine experiences.)