During our recent nine-week trip to Ecuador and Peru, we finally got to visit the Galapagos Islands, a long-held dream of ours. The visit was definitely worth the wait. You won’t find another place with such incredible biodiversity. On San Cristobal Island, sea lions are everywhere, and dive sites like Kicker Rock and Gordon Rock are teeming with hammerhead sharks, turtles, and manta rays.
Throughout the archipelago, the wildlife seems unconcerned by tourists, almost looking at us as curiosities. You can explore lakes, lava tunnels, secluded beaches, tortoise sanctuaries, and more. If you’re planning a trip to the Galapagos, rest assured, you won’t be disappointed!
To make the most of your trip, it’s good to understand a few things about the Galapagos Islands. They are located about 900 km off the Pacific coast of Ecuador and cover more than 45,000 km². Most visitors arrive via a two-hour direct flight from Quito or Guayaquil, or as part of a Pacific cruise.
Before you go, you’ll need to pay a $100 park entrance fee and a $20 immigration control card fee in cash at Guayaquil or Quito airport. There’s a booth set up for these payments, along with a bag check for contraband due to strict park rules. Arrive early to navigate the line.
The Galapagos Islands have been protected by the Galapagos Marine Reserve since 1998, helping maintain its rich biodiversity. With tourism impacting fragile ecosystems, it’s crucial to follow park rules to keep the Galapagos a paradise.
To see the more remote areas and undisturbed wildlife, a multi-day cruise is ideal, though expensive. Independent travel is a more affordable option, as we discovered. We flew from Guayaquil to San Cristobal Island and then from Santa Cruz to Quito. Return flights cost between $200 and $400. We stayed in pricier Airbnb accommodations but calculated that a couple could manage on $100 per day. Some Airbnbs and hostel private rooms cost around $50 per night, with dorm beds at $20. There are also several cheap local eateries.
For budget dining, venture off the main roads in San Cristobal and Santa Cruz. Places like Lucky Restaurant and Iguana Point offer set meals for under $5. Tours may be your biggest expense, with a day of diving costing at least $220 and taxis for inland trips costing between $40 and $75.
Travel between islands by ferry costs around $50, and tickets can be easily purchased a day in advance. We once paid $25 for a ticket from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz aboard the Osprey. Depending on the time of year, seas can vary in calmness.
We stayed in hostels during our trip, paying $60 per night in San Cristobal and $200 per night at a nice hotel in Santa Cruz. These accommodations were perfect, but there are many other options available on Airbnb and Booking.com.
When exploring independently, most people visit San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, and Isla Isabela. Each island has its top places to eat. We can share our favorites on San Cristobal and Santa Cruz but did not get to Isla Isabela. Some recommended spots include the Seafood Stands at Playa De Oro Beach, Midori Sushi, and Muyu on San Cristobal, and Almar and Il Giardino on Santa Cruz.
Most people stay in the main towns: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal, Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, and Puerto Villamil on Isabela. From here, you can easily organize day trips and excursions. While some opt for multi-day cruises, others take advantage of last-minute deals posted around town, offering up to 35% discounts.
For seeing remote areas and special species, consider a multi-day cruise, which ranges in price from $200 to $500 per night per person. Since we traveled independently, we don’t have direct experience with cruise companies, but friends of ours had a good experience with Ecoventura.
Taxi trucks are the best way to explore the interiors of the islands. We did this on both San Cristobal and Santa Cruz. On San Cristobal, we hired a taxi for $65 for a four-hour trip to Laguna El Junco, the San Cristobal Galapaguera, and Puerto Chino beach. On Santa Cruz, a three-hour taxi trip for $40 took us to Los Gemelos and Chato Reserve, where we walked through lava tunnels and saw giant tortoises.
A great day trip on Santa Cruz is the wooden walk to Tortuga Bay, featuring a beautiful white sand beach and a shaded mangrove area. Here, you might spot aquatic lizards, fish, and even sharks.
On Isla Isabela, popular tours include snorkeling at Las Tintoreras and visiting The Wall of Tears. Hiring a bike for the one-hour ride to El Muro is a good option, though you can also take a taxi truck for the bumpy roads.
For diving enthusiasts, the Galapagos offers incredible experiences. The best dive sites include Kicker Rock on San Cristobal, Gordon Rock on Santa Cruz, and Cape Marshall on Isabela. Advanced divers will love the large marine life visible at these sites.
If snorkeling, you can rent equipment for about $5 per day and explore on your own. San Cristobal’s Playa Punta Corola and Playa Mann are excellent spots.
Overall, the Galapagos Islands were one of our favorite travel destinations. While we traveled independently this time, next time we might combine it with a cruise. Although the islands are about 50% more expensive than mainland Ecuador, budget travelers can still visit without breaking the bank.
If you’re in Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands are worth the trip. Whether traveling independently or via a cruise, try to minimize your ecological footprint. Avoid single-use plastics, give animals space, and dispose of waste responsibly to help preserve this incredible environment for future generations.