The Río de la Plata separates the bustling city of Buenos Aires in Argentina and the charming town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Although they are only 28 nautical miles apart, they feel vastly different.
In Buenos Aires, our taxi sped down a twelve-lane highway towards the port to catch a ferry to our third South American country, Uruguay. Stepping into Colonia felt like entering a picturesque postcard.
In Buenos Aires, we had grown accustomed to high-rise buildings, expansive parks, and grand statues, many with Italian Renaissance or art-nouveau designs. In contrast, Colonia, a Portuguese settlement from 1680, features low-rise, colorful buildings in its historic district. The narrow, cobblestone streets are flanked by numerous crumbling ruins and small parks, creating an incredibly green environment.
We immediately felt a connection with Colonia due to its accessibility and abundance of quaint cafes and restaurants along the back lanes. The old town exuded a peaceful and relaxed vibe, confirming our decision to explore this new country was a good one.
While many opt for a day trip to Colonia, we chose to stay for three nights, a refreshing change after a month in the bustling Buenos Aires. After checking into our quaint posada with ten rooms, we headed to the rooftop and saw about a hundred people sunbathing and swimming by the river. Not wanting to miss out, and with the temperature hitting 30 degrees, we put on our bathing suits and headed out for a day in the water.
Biking is the ideal way to explore beyond the old town, and our posada provided free bikes. We eagerly rode our single-speed bicycles towards the beach, where we found a shallow, brown, cloudy river. Despite this, the heat convinced us to take a dip. We waded out, but the water never rose above our knees, leading us to kneel and roll in the water to cool off—a likely amusing sight to onlookers. After five minutes, we were ready to move on.
While the river was a bit of a letdown, the other activities and restaurants in Colonia more than made up for it. The town’s historical center has only one busy road; the rest are quiet, residential streets. Wandering around, we saw locals enjoying mate in front of their homes and friendly stray dogs looking for attention. We stumbled upon a theatrical performance in a park and Candombe dancers in the streets. We sipped beers by the river, explored the harbor, and soaked in the serene atmosphere.
The main attractions in Colonia include a few museums, an old stone bridge and wall, the lighthouse, and a church. The lighthouse, built in 1855, was erected to prevent shipwrecks in the Río de la Plata. It offers great views over the river and city and stands over the ruins of the 17th-century San Francisco Convent. The breeze and vistas from the top were fantastic.
Descending from the lighthouse, we found a narrow, cobbled street and a small door with a sign reading “Buen Suspiro.” Inside, we discovered a cozy wine bar. We were intrigued by Uruguay’s Tannat grape, known for producing robust, full-bodied wines that stain your teeth and tongue purple. The waiter recommended the Maderos 2011 Gran Reserva Tannat, and we enjoyed our first taste of this unique grape.
With a platter of local cheese and meat, and a bottle of Tannat, we spent our last night in Colonia in the dimly lit cellar. For us, a good vibe, a variety of eateries, interesting sites, and friendly people are all it takes to enjoy a destination. While Buenos Aires had its moments, our escapade to Colonia rejuvenated our travel spirits. After three days, we were eager to continue exploring Uruguay.