After an exciting five days in the Masai Mara, we packed our bags and headed back to Nairobi. We spent one more day in Kenya’s capital before traveling to Tanzania. We had read that the bus ride from Nairobi to Moshi, Tanzania, would cost $35 each, which seemed expensive compared to other rides in Kenya. But with our bargaining skills, we managed to get the tickets for $20 each, which was a great deal.
The next day, we made it to the border, where we got stamped out of Kenya and into Tanzania. This crossing was different because they had a fingerprint scanner and required proof of a Yellow Fever vaccination. Although we had our vaccinations done before leaving Canada, Nick had lost his certificate somewhere in Egypt. Luckily, they didn’t ask for it, but we saw a South African man being taken to the “vaccination room.” I’d rather stay in Kenya forever than get a shot at a border crossing.
Once we were through, we continued our journey to Tanzania, enjoying the picturesque landscapes of pineapple and coffee plantations along the way. Our destination was Moshi to see Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest mountain. We had an amazing view of the mountain from the rooftop of our backpackers. Even though the snow-capped peak looked stunning, we weren’t there to climb it—saving that adventure for Nepal. After a couple of days enjoying local coffee and tea, we took another bus to Dar Es Salaam.
Since this was our second time in Dar, we knew the area well. We checked into the Safari Inn, enjoyed some delicious Indian food, and went to the port to book our boat ride to Zanzibar. We had heard so much about the island and couldn’t wait to explore it.
Arriving in Stone Town on the ferry felt like stepping back in time. It reminded us a bit of Lamu Island in Kenya, but with vehicles. Between the 12th and 15th centuries, Zanzibar became a powerful trade hub with Arabia and the Persian Gulf, supplying slaves, wood, ivory, and gold to places like India and Asia. This trading brought Islamic and Arabic architectural influences to the island, visible in the mosques, homes, and traditional Islamic dress.
We loved walking around Stone Town, especially the oceanside promenade where food vendors sold pancakes, pizzas, and fruit juice at night. The beach area wasn’t great for swimming but perfect for people-watching. Locals gathered at sunset to swim, play soccer, and stroll hand in hand.
We found a great local spot for meals—busy and affordable with traditional Zanzibari food. Stone Town felt safe, and we were comfortable enough to walk around with our camera in the evening. Our favorite part of town was its interior with crumbling buildings, narrow alleyways, unique architecture, and surprises around every corner. The wooden doors, a symbol of wealth and status, were fascinating, especially those with massive brass spikes meant to protect against elephants.
Nick went diving on our second day. Since the dive site was in Northern Mnemba and the boat was small, I couldn’t join him. He had two great dives with perfect visibility, seeing a black tip reef shark, octopus, turtles, sting rays, and many fish. The highlight was above water when a pod of dolphins swam by, and Nick got to jump in and swim with them for five memorable minutes!
After three perfect days in Stone Town, we decided it was time for the beach. We headed to Paje Beach, and it didn’t disappoint. Initially, we struggled to find an affordable or cool place to stay until we remembered Teddy’s Place, recommended by someone we met in Malawi. They had a beach bungalow available, which was perfect—spacious with a sand floor, a chill-out area with music, a bar, and a treehouse with hammocks overlooking the ocean. The beach was stunning with white sand as far as the eye could see and turquoise water.
We spent three nights on this beautiful beach, and one of those days was Halloween. There were a couple of costume parties, so we dressed up—me as an African Mama and Nick as an African Warrior. We had many cocktails and beers, enjoyed live music by a bonfire, and had an awesome time celebrating Halloween for the first time in years.
Zanzibar is a small island with a big impact. The atmosphere, the rich flavors of the cuisine, the friendly locals, and the beautiful beaches made it one of our favorite destinations. On the ferry back to bustling Dar Es Salaam, we already missed the swaying palm trees.