During travel, sometimes our eagerness to visit a particular place can lead us into potentially risky situations. That was the case when we decided to head to the Lamu Archipelago, a chain of islands where, just weeks earlier, a British couple had been kidnapped by Somali pirates, resulting in one of their deaths. Shortly after, another woman was kidnapped from her home by the same pirates. Despite these dangers, we were determined to see the beautiful archipelago we had heard so much about.
We reasoned that after such incidents, security measures would be at their highest, making it the safest time to visit. After speaking with locals and reading the news, we convinced ourselves and embarked on the grueling eight-hour journey to Lamu.
The bus ride was excruciatingly bumpy; we could barely stay in our seats. Along the way, we met a friendly local family who joined us on a private speedboat to Lamu Island. Stepping off the boat felt like traveling back in time to when Swahili culture thrived along Kenya’s coast.
Lamu Island has no cars, and donkeys are the main mode of transport, giving the place a peaceful and quiet ambiance. The medieval-looking buildings, traditional attire of the locals, and the relaxed pace of life were instantly captivating.
We checked into our beautiful hotel room and strolled along the oceanfront promenade before trying some delectable Swahili cuisine. The food was superb, featuring grilled snapper with spicy coconut sauce, spiced rice, grilled vegetables, and fresh passionfruit juice. That night, we fell asleep to the sounds of military helicopters and the Kenyan Coastguard patrolling the area, adding a surreal touch to our experience.
The next morning, heavy rain greeted us, leaking slightly into our rooftop room. We waited all day but eventually had to brave the rain to find food. At a restaurant, we played the traditional African board game “Bao” and met an intriguing fellow traveler. He was born in Hungary, grew up in Montreal, and now lives in Austria when not traveling. He even gave us some financial advice!
Sadly, the rain continued for most of our remaining time on the island, pouring for 46 out of the 48 hours we had left. However, the two rain-free hours were unforgettable. We explored the narrow lanes, observing the traditional way of life. The sounds of mosques calling for prayer filled the air, school children in uniforms hurried home, and donkeys dominated the streets.
We visited local veggie markets and roadside vendors, immersing ourselves in the island’s exotic atmosphere, enhanced by swaying palm trees. It’s no wonder Lamu Island was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Lamu Island reminded us of other timeless places we’ve visited, like Siwa Oasis in Egypt and Ibo Island in Mozambique. These destinations, untouched by mass tourism, make us feel like true explorers witnessing something rare before it changes forever. We hope places like Lamu retain their charm and resist conforming to western influences for as long as possible.
After three days on Lamu, we took a local boat back to the port, followed by another brutal bus ride to Mombasa. The rain had turned the roads muddy, creating a new challenge of avoiding getting stuck or sliding off. We spent a night in Mombasa before heading to Nairobi, a city known humorously as “Nairobbery.”
Nairobi was the starting point for our safari. Surprisingly, we had a great experience there, staying in a cozy hotel downtown. It was conveniently close to a mall with good restaurants and a supermarket perfect for stocking up on chocolate for our safari. We spent two nights in Nairobi before venturing into the wilderness to see the great plains, the Rift Valley, and the “Big 5” of the Masai Mara.