Unless you’ve recently been to Cuba or are planning a trip there, you’ve probably never heard of Camagüey. This city is famous for its maze-like streets, Spanish plazas, vibrant performing arts scene, and numerous cathedrals.
Intrigued by stories of pirate attacks and comparisons to the medinas of Morocco, we added Camagüey to our Cuban itinerary—and we’re glad we did! Here’s a quick guide to the highlights, including where to eat and stay in Camagüey.
Known as Cuba’s Catholic soul, the city’s rich religious heritage is apparent as soon as you arrive. Here are a few must-see churches:
Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral (Parque Marti): This gothic cathedral, with its triple spires, looks more European than Cuban.
Inglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Plaza de los Trabajadores): Dating back to 1748, this church has an active convent, a unique two-level arched interior, creepy catacombs, and a solid-silver coffin.
Inglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Republica and Agramonte): This renovated church is situated at a bustling intersection with great restaurants and hotels nearby.
While most Spanish colonial cities are set on a grid, Camagüey’s streets are a delightful tangle of alleyways leading to small plazas. Exploring these back streets, you’ll find locals enjoying block parties, kids playing baseball, and vendors selling their goods. Don’t forget your camera!
Plazas are central to city life in Camagüey, where you’ll find live music, eateries, and a chance to mingle with locals. Here are a few highlights:
Plaza San Juan de Dios: Known as Camagüey’s most picturesque spot, although the surrounding restaurants are often overpriced.
Parque Ignacio Agramonte: This central square is perfect for an afternoon rest. It’s flanked by beautiful buildings and often hosts evening musical performances.
Plaza Del Carmen: Found at the end of a narrow street lined with colonial homes, this plaza has sculptures, a lovely church, and classic Camagüey architecture.
Despite some preconceived notions, the food in Camagüey is quite good and affordable. Here are our top picks:
La Isabella Restaurant: Don’t be fooled by the dark exterior—this cozy spot on Theatre Street offers tasty Italian food like margarita pizza and spaghetti bolognese at reasonable prices.
La Cava Restaurant & Wine Cellar: Situated in Parque Ignacio Agramonte, this atmospheric spot serves up tapas and main courses with a decent wine selection.
Bodegon Don Cayetano: Located near the Soledad Church, this place is best for a cold beer and some appetizers, especially when there’s live music.
Pizzeria (near Soledad Church): Serving beer and pizza, this spot offers locals’ prices if you ask for the “CUP” menu.
To visit Cuba, travel insurance is mandatory. You may need to show proof upon arrival.
Miriam House: This casa particular is a 20-minute walk from the city center. It features large windows, a comfortable bed, air conditioning, a refrigerator, and an attached bathroom. Breakfast is included, and the walk to the city center is safe, even at night. If needed, you can take a cycle taxi.
Camagüey is refreshingly free from touts, unlike other Cuban cities. Cycle-taxi rides are affordable and pleasant, and locals are genuinely friendly. Unlike many destinations with a central tourist area, Camagüey offers exciting sights throughout the city. Whether it’s the Avenida de los Martires, the pedestrian-only Calle República, or the numerous intriguing backstreets, the city constantly surprises.
Despite some negative reviews, after spending three nights in Camagüey, we wished we could stay longer. Don’t pass up the opportunity to visit—you won’t be disappointed.
Traveller’s Notes:
– The Viazul bus from Trinidad to Camagüey costs 15 CUC and takes about 5 hours.
– Cycle taxis in the city are around 1 CUC, with longer trips costing 2-3 CUC.
– To avoid an early Viazul bus back to Trinidad, consider stopping in Sancti Spiritus and then taking a taxi.
For up-to-date information, visit the Infotur Office on Theatre Street. Wi-Fi is available at the Hotel Santa Maria near the Inglesia de la Soledad Church.