Sometimes, you visit a place and immediately know it will stick with you for a long time. Arslanbob was that kind of place for us. We got there late at night after a ten-hour taxi ride from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Even in complete darkness, this small mountain village had an indescribable charm.
Arslanbob is home to about 13,000 people, with 97% being Uzbek and nearly all of them practicing Islam. Nestled below the Baba-Ata Mountains, it’s renowned for having the world’s largest walnut forest. This was the kind of unique destination we had been looking forward to.
The owner of CBT Arslanbob, Hyat, met us and guided us to our homestay (16) in the dark. Despite our late arrival, the friendly family welcomed us warmly and even prepared dinner.
The next morning, we woke up to freshly brewed chai (tea) and a delicious breakfast of eggs, bread, and local salsa. Stepping out into the host family’s beautiful orchard, we started to fully appreciate the true beauty of Arslanbob. Towering above us were the majestic peaks of the Baba-Ata Mountains, and a crystal-clear river divided the village into east and west.
As we ventured out from our homestay, we were immersed in authentic Uzbek culture. People wandered the streets in traditional attire. Women wore colorful dresses and matching headscarves, while men gathered in groups, wearing Muslim taqiyahs (hats) and long coats, their gold teeth gleaming in the sun. Reenergized by the vibrant atmosphere, we felt a renewed sense of excitement.
Unsure of where to start, we visited Hyat at the CBT office for suggestions. We decided to explore the village on our own. Our first stop was the Small Waterfall, which stands at 23 meters high. Though smaller compared to the village’s 80-meter-high Big Waterfall, its mist provided a welcome respite from the heat. After enjoying the cooler temperatures around the waterfall, we headed to Panorama, a viewpoint that offers a stunning view over the village.
That afternoon, we spent time blogging in the orchard, with the sound of the river and a view of the mountains reminding us how much we loved our new job. The next day, we signed up for a fishing tour with a local 73-year-old fisherman named Badash. We left in the afternoon, arriving at the fishing spot just as the sun was setting. Although we didn’t catch anything substantial, the surroundings and company made the trip worthwhile.
In the evening, we gathered around a campfire with Badash and our guide, Lechin, sharing travel stories and hunting tales. Badash had witnessed many snow leopards and changes in his country. Although we initially considered going without a guide to save money, we were glad we had Lechin. His extensive knowledge gave us a deeper understanding of Kyrgyzstan and its people.
After a night under a sky full of stars, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast prepared by Lechin and spent a few more hours fishing unsuccessfully before heading back to Arslanbob. Although our one-night trip was brief, it was memorable, and we wished we could have spent more time with our new friends.
Upon returning to the village, we checked into a new homestay (12) and met another welcoming family. The CBT homestays in Arslanbob are numbered 1-20 and rated from 1 to 3 stars; this one was rated 2 stars and was said to be the best in town. We relaxed on the terrace, which offered a magnificent view over the valley, before heading out to explore the famous walnut forest.
The trail to the forest was soon covered by massive walnut trees. At first, we weren’t sure they were walnut trees until a nut fell from above. Using a tool, I cracked it open and enjoyed the tasty morsel inside. We continued deeper into the forest, snacking on walnuts along the way.
Further down the path, we encountered a local family having a picnic. They invited us to join them, and we shared tea, bread, and laughter. The family was camped out under the trees for two weeks during the harvest season, living on walnuts before returning to the village to sell their haul. We left them with some stickers from Canada and returned to our homestay, feeling fulfilled by the authentic local experience.
We spent a total of four nights in Arslanbob, treasuring every minute. Though we could have easily spent two weeks there exploring the mountains and getting to know the locals, our visa deadlines forced us to move on. Our next stop was Osh city, the administrative and financial capital of the Osh Province, from where we planned to embark on a 14-day journey along the breathtaking Pamir Highway, one of the world’s most beautiful and highest roads.
Arslanbob was one of our favorite villages ever. What’s yours?