We spent three nights in Kerman and had a fantastic time connecting with the locals and experiencing the religious ceremony of Ashura. It’s often the small things that make travel special, and Kerman was a perfect example.
We originally came to Kerman to explore the nearby desert, villages, and the stunning Kaluts, which are unique sand formations in the desert. However, due to tensions with neighboring Pakistan, we decided to spend more time with the Akhavan family at our hotel rather than venturing too far east.
Right from the moment we checked into the Akhavan Hotel, we knew we would enjoy our stay. The hotel is owned by friendly brothers, there were only a few other tourists, and our room was spotless. The on-site restaurant served excellent food, and the overall vibe was welcoming and warm.
After dropping off our bags, we headed out to explore the 1200-meter long bazaar. We sampled nuts, dried fruit, fresh pomegranate, and even tried a hookah pipe for free. We spent time chatting with the locals and soaking up the lively atmosphere.
Dinner back at the hotel was an impressive feast featuring beef stew, fried fish, rice, salad, yogurt, grilled potatoes, and bread. Our waiter, Mohammad, humorously insisted we drink something he called “beer,” which definitely was not beer.
The next day, we visited the nearby town of Mahan and the famous Kaluts with our driver, Ali. Although he spoke no English, Ali was a great driver, stopping whenever we asked and even made us tea throughout the day.
Despite many places being closed for Ashura, we managed to see the shrine of the Sufi dervish and poet, Shah Ne’mattolah Valie, who lived to be 100. The mausoleum dates back to 1436 and was fascinating to see.
From Mahan, we ventured into the desert. After about two hours, the landscape began to change, and small mounds appeared around us. As we drove further into the Kaluts, we saw magnificent sand formations that looked like towering sandcastles, sculpted over millennia by the wind.
We stayed until sunset, enjoying another cup of tea with Ali before heading back to the hotel. That evening, the hotel owners invited us into the bustling kitchen where they were preparing massive cauldrons of food to give away for Ashura. It’s customary to prepare food for the community during this time. They were making lamb stew and had sacrificed six sheep for the cause.
Nick and I helped by stirring the huge pots and met the owner’s three daughters, who shared more about Ashura with me. The next morning, we helped distribute the food to locals who lined up with containers to receive the offerings. It was such a rewarding experience to be part of this tradition, and we were offered a meal in return.
After a busy morning, Mr. Akhavan told us that everyone would gather downtown to sing, chant, pray, and for the men, to perform self-flagellation as part of the mourning for Imam Hussein, who died 1,333 years ago. Nick and I headed downtown, where everyone was dressed in black, mourning the loss. Though it was an intriguing sight, the crowd became overwhelming, and we decided to leave after an hour. On our way back, kind locals offered us hot chocolate and warm milk.
Our time in Kerman was about exploring the sights, but it was also deeply tied to experiencing the religious ceremony and meeting the wonderful Akhavan family. We loved our stay but, after three nights, it was time to move on. Stay tuned to hear about Nick’s Birthday in Shiraz!