Our bus ride from Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas was quite the adventure, twisting and turning through hours of hairpin bends. Trying to avoid feeling nauseous was a real challenge on this five-hour journey, which took us from 60 meters above sea level to a lofty 2,200 meters in the mountainous Chiapas State.
As we climbed higher, the scenery and climate transformed completely. The lush, tropical setting with palm trees and thick humidity gave way to cooler air and familiar pine trees. Chiapas boasts the second-largest indigenous population in Mexico, and around San Cristobal are many Tzotzil and Tzeltal villages, making this city a fascinating place to explore. Its pedestrian-friendly streets, cobblestone lanes, and numerous churches and cathedrals make it one of the best destinations in Mexico.
Upon arrival, the first thing we noticed was the mountains. Coming from the flat Yucatan region, it was refreshing to be surrounded by such rugged natural beauty. We looked forward to visiting San Cristobal Church and Guadalupe Church, though reaching them meant hiking up many uneven steps. The climb was worth it, offering stunning views over the city and surrounding mountains. We appreciated the peaceful and serene atmosphere at these viewpoints before heading back to the bustling streets below.
Beyond the city, natural attractions like Misol Ha waterfall, Sumidero Canyon, and the cascading waterfalls of Agua Azul provide excellent day trips. San Cristobal’s growing café culture adds a more European feel to the city, with locals and tourists alike enjoying Chiapas’ renowned coffee. We enjoyed leisurely mornings with a cup of freshly brewed coffee and spent our evenings exploring different cafés, often drawn in by the aroma of coffee beans and live music.
Exploring San Cristobal, we stumbled upon various pastel-colored, historic churches, convents, and plazas. Among our planned visits and delightful surprises were traditional dancing in the main square and highlights such as Plaza 31 de Marzo, Templo de Santo Domingo, and Church of Santiago. San Cristobal is very walkable, and its architecture and natural backdrop make wandering through the city a delightful experience.
A favorite activity while traveling is visiting local markets. San Cristobal’s Municipal Market was a lively place to browse for fruits and vegetables, providing a genuine and thrilling experience. The candy and crafts market near San Francisco Church was another highlight, offering aisles of sweets and vibrant textiles. The city also has numerous markets for art and textiles, with indigenous weavers producing colorful blankets, scarves, and clothing. The daily crafts market near Templo de la Caridad was vibrant, though we weren’t necessarily there to buy.
Many visitors marvel at San Cristobal’s churches, squares, and colorful traditional attire. However, this city faces significant challenges. Chiapas is Mexico’s most resource-rich state, yet it remains economically the poorest. An overwhelming 70% of its population lives in poverty, and significant portions lack access to clean drinking water, sanitation, and electricity. This disparity has led to uprisings like the 1994 Zapatista rebellion, which sought autonomy and better living conditions for indigenous people.
Despite the evident poverty and frequent encounters with young children selling goods, we enjoyed our time in San Cristobal. We didn’t ignore the region’s issues, recognizing them while appreciating the city’s many positive aspects for tourists. San Cristobal offers a retreat for travelers with its beautiful sights, rich history, and affordable textiles. But if you look deeper, you’ll uncover a complex culture and history reflective of the challenging journey to get there.