After an amazing 30 days of exploring Mongolia, it was time for us to move on. We had experienced part of the Trans-Mongolian train journey, but now we were ready to discover the rest. Our journey took us from Ulan Bator to Moscow, but we decided to make a pit stop in Irkutsk, Russia.
Barely two minutes after stepping onto our train and finding our compartment, we were offered a shot of vodka. It was just noon, so I passed, but Nick was excited to join in and embrace the local custom. Our cabin companion was a lively and friendly woman from Kazakhstan. Interestingly, we didn’t meet any Russians on our way; instead, we chatted with people from Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan, along with other Western travelers.
At 1:00 PM, the train pulled away from the platform, marking the start of our 26-hour journey from Ulan Bator to Irkutsk. We settled in, stored our bags, and enjoyed the view of the rolling green steppe from our window.
Imagining scenes of dining cars filled with people drinking, chatting, and eating, we decided to check it out. However, after exploring every car, we found out from a rather grumpy train attendant that there was no dining car until we reached the Russian border at midnight. Thankfully, we had brought our own food—sausage sandwiches, instant noodles, chocolate bars for lunch and dinner, and oatmeal for breakfast.
Soon after boarding, we noticed Mongolians walking up and down the train with huge amounts of various goods, which seemed odd. We soon realized they were trying to get other travelers to help hide their undeclared, illegal merchandise. From jeans to blankets, everything imaginable was being smuggled. Since most of it was bought in China to be sold in Russia and Central Asia, most travelers, including us, turned down their requests. The vendors had no choice but to stash their goods under floorboards and in secret compartments.
As we approached the Russian border around midnight, the real excitement began. Police, border security, and drug detection dogs boarded the train for a thorough inspection. It was clear this train was frequently used for smuggling. Western tourists like us were usually left alone, receiving only a cursory check, but Mongolians, Russians, Chinese, and others faced intense scrutiny. Unfortunately, the woman from Kazakhstan we shared a compartment with was very stressed, despite her goods being legal and declared. The whole process lasted about four hours, and we didn’t leave the border until 2:30 AM.
On these trains, the bathrooms are locked for 30 minutes before and after each stop. Around 12:30 AM, nature called, and I couldn’t wait any longer. Despite pleading with the staff, who were unhelpful and rude, I ended up using Nick’s multi-tool knife to jimmy the bathroom lock. It was a noisy operation, but in the end, it did the trick.
Finally, around 3:00 AM, we managed to get some sleep. The next day was beautiful; we woke up to see the sun shining and enjoyed a day of stunning scenery, including dense forests and the beautiful Lake Baikal. By that time, a Russian dining car had been added, so we indulged in coffee, fresh oranges, and fried potatoes. Although the prices were unexpectedly high—$3 for an orange instead of $1— the experience was worthwhile.
Despite the craziness with the smuggling, the lack of a restaurant car on the first day, and the overpriced food, we enjoyed our journey on the Trans-Siberian/Trans-Mongolian Train. The beds were comfortable, the company was great, and the views were unforgettable.
Two parts of our epic train journey were complete, with just one more leg to go!