Perito Moreno is one incredible glacier! You’ll see countless pieces of ice tumble into the water.
After hearing other travelers and reading online articles rave about Perito Moreno, we were eager to see it for ourselves.
With our camera and a bunch of charged batteries, we boarded the local bus to Glacier Perito Moreno in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, just outside El Calafate in Argentina’s Patagonia. The drive was breathtaking, but the real excitement was yet to come. Everyone on the bus was buzzing with anticipation. Once the door opened, a sea of tourists poured into the park, all searching for the path to the glacier.
Oddly, there were no signs for this major attraction, making it a bit tricky to find the 250 km² glacier. Eventually, we spotted the entrance and followed the easy-to-navigate metal path. And there it was – a massive, brilliant blue expanse of ice.
Part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, which Argentina shares with Chile, this glacier holds the title of the third-largest reserve of fresh water in the world. Unlike many glaciers that are retreating due to climate change, Perito Moreno is advancing, making it self-sustaining. We dubbed it the “guilt-free glacier” because we could watch it crack, calve, and melt without feeling it was our fault.
Determined to capture as much footage as possible, we brought our own lunch and ate it on the viewing platform. Nick set up the camera at the edge, ready to record any action. Within minutes, a deep rumbling echoed from beneath the glacier as it shifted. The creaking, moaning, and groaning sounds filled the air – this was the moment we were waiting for!
And then… nothing.
The glacier seemed to be teasing us. Each time it groaned, we held our breath in anticipation, but nothing happened. Nick held the camera for four hours straight, even getting sunburned hands in the process. Finally, our patience paid off, as a chunk of ice broke off at the far end of the glacier. The crash was spectacular and deafening, but it wasn’t the dramatic display we had hoped for.
After about four hours, it was time to catch the bus back to El Calafate. Though Mother Nature didn’t put on the show we expected, being so close to this vast glacier was an unforgettable experience.
El Calafate, just across the border from Chile and a three-hour drive from Puerto Natales, is known for being the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier. It’s a funky little trekking town with plenty to explore. You’ll find lots of older, Gore-Tex clad travelers, more so than in nearby El Chalten. Many tour groups visit Perito Moreno, which is an easy day trip that requires no special fitness level.
The town is lined with boutique chocolate shops, cafes, and artisan stores. Friendly stray dogs wander the streets, and many restaurants roast full lamb carcasses over open fires behind large glass windows. There are serene lakes, quiet back streets, good restaurants, and welcoming people. Most tourists use El Calafate as the base for visiting the Perito Moreno National Park.
Accommodations are plentiful, with many hotels and a couple of hostels. We stayed at Hotel Kosten Aike, which featured a beautifully decorated interior and an alpine-style exterior. The common area offered amenities like a ping-pong table, pool table, seating areas, and a bar. They even had a program where you could crochet a “square of love” to be made into a blanket for someone in need. We loved this initiative!
Our room was spacious with a king-sized bed and a big bathroom. The room rate included a large buffet-style breakfast with scrambled eggs, fresh fruit salad, and dulce de leche sweets. The friendly and helpful staff made our stay even better, greeting us with a welcome drink upon arrival. Rooms were very affordable at around $115 per night.
For budget-conscious travelers, there are hostels available. El Calafate has numerous restaurants and cafes, though they can be pricey. One restaurant captivated us with a lamb roasting over an open fire – a regional specialty that didn’t disappoint. For 280 pesos ($18), you get a generous plate of deliciously grilled meat. Sides of pumpkin, potato, and salad are extra, around 70 pesos ($4.50) each. Another spot served great grilled chicken breast for 160 pesos ($10.50).
A quaint corner cafe offers daily specials. We had meatballs in sauce with a side of rice, costing 430 pesos ($28) for two people, including coffees. If you’re craving something lighter, a little shop has ready-made salads, empanadas, and other baked goods. Salads are 125 pesos ($8) and empanadas are 30 pesos ($2) each.
Visiting the glacier on your own is easy. Just head to the bus station and get your ticket the day before. Two buses run daily, one at 9:30 am and another in the afternoon. Tickets are 450 pesos return ($30), giving you about four hours at the glacier.
Even though we didn’t see as much falling ice as other travelers, visiting this famous glacier was still magical. Surrounded by mountains, a clear lake, and the enormous ice mass, it was an unforgettable experience. A trip to Patagonia isn’t complete without visiting El Calafate and the nearby Perito Moreno Glacier.