The Circuit trek in Torres del Paine is a true adventure for the daring traveler. It offers an immersive experience in nature, far from the bustling crowds. When choosing between the trek options in the National Park (the W or the O Circuit), it’s crucial to consider your physical capabilities.
The O Circuit is particularly suited for those with an adventurous mindset who are prepared for a longer journey and are in relatively good physical condition.
In this guide, you’ll find invaluable tips and advice based on our experience trekking in Torres del Paine during March.
As of October 2016, it’s mandatory to have reservations for all camps where you plan to stay, including free camping sites, paid campgrounds, and refugios. You’ll need to show a printed reservation or proof of it on your smartphone to the rangers.
There are three companies operating campsites in Torres del Paine for both the Circuit and W trails:
– Vertice Patagonia: Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, and Paine Grande campsites
– Fantasticosur: Serón, Los Cuernos, El Chileno, Central, and Frances campsites
– CONAF: Free campsites at Italiano, Paso, and Torres Ranger Station & Camping
Before setting out, you’ll likely spend a night or two in Puerto Natales, where there are numerous guesthouses, hostels, and hotels.
The O Circuit is a 130-kilometer loop that includes the W trail, adding an additional backside section of the mountain. Most hikers complete it in 7 nights and 8 days, though you can extend this if you prefer shorter hiking days and more camp stays.
The trek begins and ends at the Las Torres Hotel. From there, heading counterclockwise, the first camp is Serón. The route from Serón to the Paso Ranger Station must be done counterclockwise. While the backside of the mountain is exclusive to the O Circuit, the section from Grey Camping to Las Torres Hotel connects with the W trail, which can be hiked in either direction. The backside of the mountain limits the number of hikers to 80 per day, unlike the W trail, which has no such restriction.
Campsites vary in amenities, from the basic free sites to the more equipped paid ones. Here’s a snapshot of what to expect at the camps we stayed at:
– Serón: Grassy field with proper toilets, hot showers, sinks for washing dishes, and drinking water taps. Cost: 8,500 pesos ($12.75)
– Dickson: Spectacular setting with flush toilets, a hot water shower, and a dome for cooking. Cost: 5,000 pesos ($7.50)
– Los Perros: Dirt plots with flush toilets but no hot showers. Raised cooking building available. Cost: 5,000 pesos ($7.50)
– Paso: Very basic facilities with an outhouse, no showers, and a small cooking hut. Cost: Free
– Grey Lodge & Camping: Busy camp with lots of amenities and great views of Grey Glacier.
– Paine Grande Camping: Large and busy campsite with showers, toilets, and a communal cooking area. Cost: 6,000 pesos ($9.00)
– Italiano: Large free campsite with basic facilities. Rangers are friendly. Cost: Free
– Torres Ranger Station and Camping Zone: Basic facilities with flat campsites. Cost: Free
For an independent camping trip on the O Circuit, here’s a packing list:
– Clothing: Pack weather-appropriate, lightweight garments.
– Gear: Ensure you have sturdy trekking equipment and a reliable tent.
– Toiletries: Basic hygiene items.
– Food: Opt for lightweight, non-cook meals with high protein content. Consider cooking once a day to save fuel.
Water from waterfalls, streams, rivers, and camp taps is drinkable, so avoid packing extra water. Purchase supplies like dehydrated meals or vacuum-sealed foods in Puerto Natales.
– Cash: Bring enough money for entrance fees, shuttles, and possible food purchases.
Keeping your backpack contents dry is vital. Use waterproof liners and Zip-Loc bags for electronics and other items.
Take only what you need. Reducing weight is crucial. Store unnecessary items safely in Puerto Natales. Check storage options at your accommodation.
Buying or renting gear is straightforward in Chile, particularly in places like Santiago and Punta Arenas. Puerto Natales also offers affordable options, although most shops close on Sundays. Renting equipment is another option; Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales is a popular choice, though some of their gear might be worn.
Your trekking route and duration depend on your speed, daily distance preference, and campsite budget. Here’s a sample itinerary:
– Day 1: Start at Las Torres Hotel, trek to Serón (13 km, ~5 hours).
– Day 2: Serón to Dickson (19 km, ~8 hours, depending on weather).
– Day 3: Dickson to Los Perros (12 km, ~6 hours).
– Day 4: Los Perros to Paso via John Gardner Pass (8 km, ~8 hours).
– Day 5: Paso to Grey Camp (21 km, ~8-9 hours, advise a break at Grey Camp).
– Day 6: Grey Camp to Paine Grande (11 km, ~4-5 hours).
– Day 7: Paine Grande to Italiano (7.5 km, ~2.5 hours).
– Day 8: Italiano to Torres Ranger Station (23 km, ~8 hours).
– Day 9: Final ascent to Base de las Torres lookout, then back to Las Torres Hotel.
For safety and enjoyment, attend the daily seminar at Base Camp / Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales, where guides offer expert advice on hiking in Torres del Paine.
Always use designated bathrooms and carry out all your garbage. Drink water away from camps and avoid using sterilization methods unless necessary. Bring back all your waste to keep the park pristine.
Having travel insurance is strongly recommended for this adventure. World Nomads is one of many providers that cover trekking and camping.
Torres del Paine offers breathtaking natural beauty. With proper preparation and a positive attitude, you’re set for an unforgettable experience. Happy trekking!