Our guide on the Free Walking Tour in Salta was quite surprised when he heard our plan. “You’re taking that road? It’s often flooded and a pretty crazy drive,” he exclaimed. We had already read bloggers’ warnings about the road from Cafayate to Cachi, but hearing it from a local really made us think twice. Traveling in the Salta province during the rainy season meant we could expect road closures, landslides, and floods along Route 40.
We set off from Cafayate with hazy minds from wine tasting and a hope for sunny weather. Soon, just 29 kilometers in, the pavement disappeared, and we were left with nothing but dusty, bumpy roads for the rest of the journey to Cachí. The landscape was barren, lined with desert, cacti, and the occasional shack. The views were decent, but we initially questioned those who claimed this route was one of the best around.
Then we reached the Quebradas de los Flechas, and our views changed drastically. Having driven through the Quebradas de las Conchas before, we didn’t think the scenery could get any better. But as we entered these Quebradas, the jagged sandstone rock formations left us in awe. With only a few other vehicles around, we had the stunning views mostly to ourselves, pulling over frequently to take pictures.
After 5.5 hours of driving with no rain or flooded roads, we arrived in Cachí. We felt fortunate. This small town of about 5,500 residents is nestled under the Nevado of Cachi, a chain of towering mountain peaks. We enjoyed the whitewashed buildings, laid-back locals, and especially the roadside goat cheese quesadillas.
The next morning, we packed up our Chevy Classic and hit the road again. Traveling by car is far easier than public transport—we often don’t even pack fully and just toss everything in the trunk. Our plan was to drive north toward Salta, bypassing the city and continuing to Tilcara, close to the borders of Bolivia and Chile.
Our day began with thick clouds obscuring the valley views. Frustrated by the poor visibility, we navigated numerous hairpin turns in the fog and wind. Passing other vehicles seemed almost impossible, but luckily, none were coming uphill.
Despite an anticlimactic start, the drive soon became eventful. We hit and killed a bird, noticed many dead tarantulas on the road, and even encountered a live one. We saw llamas, donkeys, a unique cemetery, and even a local festival with music and food. As we journeyed, the scenery shifted from dry and barren to lush and green. After bypassing Salta on the highway, we took the old Route 9, surrounded by thick green trees and rushing rivers, until we reached the Jujuy Province.
Debating between ending our drive in Purmamarca or Tilcara, we chose the latter and were pleased. Tilcara had a distinctly Bolivian vibe, with traditional handicrafts, clothing, and unique artwork. The village, set at the foothills of the Andes in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley, sits at an elevation of 2,500 meters.
We looked forward to visiting Argentina’s salt flats. We’d heard about Bolivia’s famous flats but had no idea Argentina had its own. Our car zigzagged up mountainsides, reaching an altitude of 4,170 meters. We paused for photos and noticed the intense sun and our labored breathing. It’s critical to have plenty of drinking water for such high-altitude trips.
Descending, we spotted the dazzling white salt flats ahead. Unexpectedly, we got a flat tire. This seems to happen every time we rent a car. The sun beat down as we struggled to change the tire on soft, gravelly ground. After a brief challenge, we were back on the road toward the gleaming white expanse.
Unlike Bolivia’s salt flats, Argentina’s had a road cutting through the middle, allowing us to drive straight across. Attempting some optical illusion photos, we soon realized a third person was needed to capture them properly. Nevertheless, we were captivated by the flats, which cover 212 square kilometers at an elevation of 3,450 meters.
Heading to Tilcara, we made a stop in Purmamarca, a small town known for its colorful mountains. The Hill of Seven Colors, true to its name, features a brilliant palette of reds, pinks, purples, greens, and browns—best viewed at dawn, though we arrived later in the day.
With our rental car due back by 11:00 am, we chose the faster highway back to Salta. There were a few gas stations to fill up on the way, but not many sights. Renting a car to explore Salta and Jujuy was a highlight of our Argentina trip. Having our own wheels allowed us to experience so many amazing sights at our own pace. Road-tripping in Argentina—check!