During our trip to Patagonia, we encountered some of the most unique mountain formations we’d ever seen. These towering peaks, both narrow and jagged, are among the most photographed globally, and it’s easy to see why. With the remarkable “Towers” on the Chilean side and the mesmerizing Mount Fitz Roy on the Argentinian side, we felt like we were in paradise.
Our bus trip from El Calafate to El Chaltén was pretty standard until the last 15 minutes. Suddenly, Mount Fitz Roy came into clear view, prompting everyone to rush to the front of the bus to snap photos. It’s usually cloaked in clouds, but we lucked out with perfectly clear weather, making the mountain fully visible.
Backpacking through Patagonia had been far from cheap, but El Chaltén pleasantly surprised us with its affordable restaurants, bars, and free hiking trails.
Once the bus arrived in town, a ranger provided a mandatory briefing about the National Park. El Chaltén is unique because it’s located in the Los Glaciares National Park, which is free to enter – a rarity in Patagonia. The ranger emphasized the importance of preserving this pristine environment, including using toilets instead of nature and carrying out all trash. He mentioned there are strict fines for non-compliance.
After the briefing, we headed to our hotel, the Don Los Cerros Boutique Hotel, situated on a hill with stunning views of the valley and mountains. This would be our home for the next four nights. Efrain, who greeted us warmly, discussed our recent trek in Torres del Paine National Park and outlined other hikes in the area. Our room featured a massive jacuzzi tub and a king-sized bed with floor-to-ceiling windows that Nick immediately adored.
The hotel provided a full breakfast (with bacon!), and an upstairs common area with couches and tables. The bar area offered incredible views, making it a perfect place to unwind.
Not only was the hotel itself beautiful, but its location was ideal. A brief five-minute walk from the hotel brought us to the trailhead for one of the most popular and picturesque treks, Laguna Torre. Within about 20 minutes of hiking, we had our first glimpse of the Cerro Solo, Adela range, Cerro Torre, and Mount Fitz Roy. It was a breathtaking array of granite peaks.
Continuing along the trail, we encountered the only toilet on the path and another viewpoint of Cerro Torre (which means “hill” or “mountain” in Spanish) and the Adela Range. The tallest peak, Cerro Torre, stands out with its unique shape at 3,102 meters.
With the Fitz Roy River on our left and stunning mountain ranges ahead, the scenery couldn’t have been better. After one final rocky climb, we reached Laguna Torre, a glacier-fed lake surrounded by the mountains we had seen earlier. We admired the views and the bits of glacier floating in the lake, a perfect picnic spot where cooking gear isn’t restricted like in Torres del Paine.
After a while, we started our return journey to El Chaltén as clouds began to cover the peaks. Although there are numerous other treks around El Chaltén, my back was still recovering from completing the “O” Circuit in Torres del Paine, and our feet were still sore. So, the Laguna Torre trek was our only hike during this visit.
Despite not doing more trekking, we enjoyed exploring the town and relaxing at our hotel’s spa and bar. After months of eating steak, lamb, empanadas, pizza, and pasta, we were thrilled to find a vegetarian restaurant, a burger bar, and a wine bar offering sandwiches, salads, and Mediterranean-style platters.
Even though it was the shoulder season, we met some cool Dutch people while sipping beers outdoors in the sun, with views of Fitz Roy Mountain. The combination of new friends, drinks, and incredible views made for an unforgettable experience.
El Chaltén is a must-visit for anyone in Patagonia. Even for non-trekkers, there are easy day hikes and a nearby waterfall. The town has a relaxed vibe, friendly people, and numerous food and drink options, though some places are pricier than others. The only downside is the unreliable wifi and lack of data service, which makes El Chaltén an excellent place to unplug and enjoy the natural beauty.
After five wonderful days, it was time to move on and explore the northern parts of Patagonia in Argentina’s Lake District.