We arrived in Xi’an after a long train ride from Chengdu. We chose the budget-friendly “hard sleeper” class, which means six bunks per compartment, stacked three high on each side. This time, we were grateful to get the middle bunk, which is the best option. It allows you to sit up and have the bunk to yourself all day. The bottom bunk becomes a seat for everyone else during the day, and the top bunk doesn’t provide enough room. Unfortunately, the air conditioning in our car wasn’t working. While the other train cars were cool, we were left sweating and trying to sleep amid lingering cigarette smoke, a common issue on Chinese trains.
Upon arrival, despite having little sleep, we took a local bus to our hostel. Although taking a cab was tempting after 20 hours on a train, we wanted to stick to our budget. As the bus entered through the massive ancient wall surrounding the city, we were struck by its history. Built in 618 AD, the wall has suffered damage over time but still stands as one of the best-preserved examples of a walled city in China.
Our hostel, Xiangzimen, was just inside the city walls. The old building had traditional carved moldings and entranceways, giving it a historical charm. China is incredibly budget-friendly for backpackers, and every hostel here offers great value. Our main reason for coming to Xi’an was to see the famous Terracotta Warriors. Over 2,000 years ago, Emperor Qin Shihuang of the Qin Dynasty built a tomb for himself, believing he would need an army to protect him in the afterlife. He had 70,000 people carve 7,500 soldiers over 37 years. Each soldier has a unique face and was placed in strategic battle formation around the tomb.
Despite centuries of looting and destruction, many soldiers remain intact, making it one of the world’s most impressive archaeological sites. As we explored the different pits, the scale of Emperor Qin’s project was astounding. Although many soldiers are now headless or limbless, their detailed craftsmanship still impresses tourists. The creation of the Terracotta Warriors was a brutal process with many workers dying from starvation and harsh conditions. Qin Shihuang also initiated the construction of much of the Great Wall of China, which resulted in the deaths of a million men. Though his methods were ruthless, the results are truly remarkable.
After visiting the warriors, we had some time to explore Xi’an before catching our train to Beijing. The town itself is fascinating, even aside from the Terracotta Warriors. Highlights include old drum and clock towers and the vibrant Muslim district, home to the Great Mosque, one of the largest in China. While some entrance fees can be steep for budget travelers, the sights are worth seeing, even from the outside.
We wandered through the narrow lanes filled with street food vendors and candy stalls. Eager to try the famous lamb soup of Xi’an, we found a small street-side restaurant. With no English spoken, we were relieved when a young college student sat next to us and explained how to order. He told us to first break up the dense flatbread into a bowl and then bring it to the kitchen to be filled with soup. After spending ten minutes tearing up the bread, we were quite hungry when the soup was served. The broth was flavorful, and the lamb tender, making it one of the best soups we’ve ever had. It was a true taste sensation and a bargain at under $2.
After dinner, we headed to the train station for another overnight trip, this time in the “soft sleeper” class, a step up for us budget travelers. Given our previous experiences with trains in China, we hoped this journey would be more comfortable.