We drove our little Chevy Spark from Port St. Johns to Umzumbe to stay at Mantis and Moon, a recommended backpackers’ spot. Surprisingly, there were no other tourists—just me, Nick, and the three staff members. We hung out with them and checked out the beach. I wasn’t too keen on swimming because of the Great White Sharks in the area, despite the protective nets.
Our trip to Umzumbe was somewhat chaotic. The main reason for going there was for Nick to dive in the nearby town of Umkomaas. We scheduled the dive for 7:00 am on the second day. However, everything that could go wrong did, from a flat tire to forgetting directions. Instead of diving, we visited Oribi Gorge National Park, which ended up being fantastic.
Oribi Gorge is a stunning area along the Umzimkulwana River, a highlight of the Southern Coast. We chose a 10km hike through the thick jungle. Though the path wasn’t clearly marked, we managed to stay on track most of the time. The trail twisted and turned, bordered by the river on one side and cliffs on the other. It ended at a beautiful waterfall, where we enjoyed tuna salads in peace.
The following day, Nick finally got to dive, but the weather didn’t cooperate. We arrived in Umkomaas at 6:30 am, and he geared up. The zodiac boat launched into rough waters, looking like a wild white-water rafting trip. During the surface interval between the two dives, everyone except Nick and the dive instructor got seasick. Although the first dive wasn’t enjoyable due to the choppy conditions, the second dive at Raggie Caves was rewarding. Nick saw about 10 Raggie Tooth Sharks and collected two big shark teeth as souvenirs.
After the dive, we headed north to the Isimangaliso Wetland Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park spans 200 kilometers from the Mozambican border to Lake St. Lucia’s southern end and protects various ecosystems, including reefs, beaches, lakes, wetlands, woodlands, and forests.
We reached the town of St. Lucia, where we stayed overnight at a backpackers’ lodge. The next morning, feeling under the weather, I drove us to Lake St. Lucia Estuary. We were lucky enough to spot eight hippos sunning themselves beside a watering hole and even saw a crocodile nearby. Our day continued with sightings of buffalo, zebras, baboons, antelope, and various bird species. It was a fantastic day, concluded with dinner and an early night.
The next morning, we set off early to the Imfoluzi National Park for a self-drive safari. The thick brush made animal spotting challenging, but we managed to see about 15 giraffes, numerous wildebeests, and 12 white rhinos. We enjoyed the breathtaking scenery from a high viewpoint, observing herds of antelope, buffalo, and zebras on the plains below.
After returning to St. Lucia for dinner and socializing with other travelers, we spent our last day in town relaxing with no early alarms.
Before leaving South Africa, we decided to visit Swaziland, a small country surrounded by South Africa and Mozambique, known for its traditional culture and beautiful game reserves. We stayed at Milwane National Park in a traditional “rondavel” hut made of mud and grass. The reserve is unique because it lacks predators (except for hippos and crocs), allowing tourists to walk freely among harmless animals.
We enjoyed peaceful mornings with coffee and breakfast outside our hut, watching warthogs, antelope, ostriches, and wildebeest grazing nearby. We went for a hike and encountered hippos and crocodiles up close. One evening, we watched traditional Zulu dancing at the main camp before returning to our hut for a restful night’s sleep.
After three nights in Swaziland, we headed to Pretoria, our final stop in South Africa. We spent three nights in a cool backpackers’ lodge, meeting friendly people and preparing for our next adventure. We returned our car, applied for our Mozambique visa, and did some last-minute research. It was a laid-back time, and now we’re all set for Mozambique.