After an incredible time spotting animals in Addo National Park, we wanted to slow things down and headed to the laid-back area of Coffee Bay. Given the distance, we decided to spend a night in Chintsa, which looked lovely even though our stay was brief. South Africa truly has so much to offer!
The drive to Coffee Bay was picturesque, featuring stunning valleys, mountains, and local villages. However, once we left the highway and hit a long side road, we encountered numerous “pothole” signs—an understatement considering the actual size of the craters. Nick had to skillfully maneuver around them, which was tricky with no shoulder on the road, lots of oncoming traffic, and many pedestrians. Despite our best efforts, we eventually hit one. Faced with an oncoming truck, there was no avoiding it. The result? A blown tire with a massive cut in it.
We pulled over, turned on the hazards, unloaded everything to get to the spare tire and tools, and got to work with an audience of curious local Xhosa children. Just another typical day in Africa!
Our main reason for visiting Coffee Bay was the annual drumming festival, a popular event among backpackers. We settled at a decent, though not outstanding, backpacker lodge. After a much-needed nap, we had dinner and beer before the festival kicked off at around 8 PM. The event featured tribal dancing, beautiful singing, an Australian playing the didgeridoo, fire twirlers, rock bands, and plenty of African drumming!
The drumming and partying lasted into the early morning hours. While we enjoyed the festival, we struggled to connect with the local people and noticed a strong racial segregation. Feeling surprisingly fresh the next morning, we set off early for Port St. John’s.
Port St. John’s exceeded our expectations. Situated by the ocean and surrounded by lush vegetation, stunning cliffs, and an untouched coastline, it felt like paradise. Although we initially planned to stay for just a night, the charm of our backpacker lodge, Jungle Monkey, convinced us to extend our stay to three nights.
Our large private room, away from the main house, offered a deck with a view of the jungle and rocky cliffs, complete with an outdoor shower. Mornings were spent sipping coffee and taking in the scenery—ideal for budget-conscious backpackers.
On our first day, we drove to “second beach” and walked the long stretch of sand till we saw a sign directing us to a jungle path along the coastline. Following it led us to a massive hill offering breathtaking ocean views, where we even spotted dolphins!
We then embarked on a more adventurous path that required some rock climbing with the help of a cable rope for safety. Climbing down and up wooden ladders, crossing a rocky pathway, and finally reaching another hill paid off with even better ocean views. The sight of a blowhole, where strong waves sent water shooting into the air, was a new and thrilling experience for us.
The following days were spent relaxing and handling our backpacker duties: laundry, blogging, and grocery shopping. One evening, our lodge provided a shuttle to an old airstrip for sunset viewing. Despite being a bit windy, the sunset was beautiful. After saying goodbye to our jungle surroundings, we hit the highway again, this time heading to Umzumbe for our next adventure: diving!