After spending three fantastic days at the desert oasis of Garmeh, we set off for Yazd, known for its Zoroastrian heritage and distinctive desert architecture. As we rode the taxi from the bus station, the ancient cityscape made a strong first impression. The old town, entirely built from mud and mud brick, had narrow, covered lanes that posed a challenge for our taxi to navigate.
Upon arrival, we checked into the Kohan Hotel, another beautiful example of Iranian architecture. These hotels are typically former residences centered around lovely garden courtyards, and Kohan was no exception. Its large central courtyard provided the perfect setting for relaxing afternoons blogging—it felt like an ideal place for us!
Our evenings in Yazd were spent wandering through the old town, getting pleasantly lost in its winding lanes and tunnels. As the sun set, the mud walls and caves took on a golden brown hue. We would conclude our day by watching the city’s sunset from our hotel’s rooftop, a stunning display of oranges and pinks.
Each rooftop in Yazd features an ancient cooling system called a Bagdir. These structures have vertical slots that capture the breeze and channel it into the homes below, making for an effective desert cooling method.
Our visit coincided with Ashura, the most significant religious event in the Shia Islamic calendar. The streets were filled with men and women mourning the death of Imam Hussein, creating a deeply moving atmosphere. Despite the intensity of the occasion, we found a guide, Mr. Lorian, a friendly and knowledgeable Zoroastrian local, to show us around.
Mr. Lorian took us to several major sites around Yazd. Our first stop was Kharanaq, a 1,000-year-old mud caravanserai abandoned about 50 years ago when residents moved to a nearby modern city. The site was a fascinating maze of ancient mud walls.
Next, we visited Chak Chak, an ancient Zoroastrian pilgrimage site. Zoroastrianism, a pre-Islamic religion, was once the primary faith in Iran. At Chak Chak, the site is named for a dripping water sound, which is said to be the tears of a forgotten princess mourning her family.
Finally, we explored Meybod, notable for two main attractions: the nearly 1,800-year-old Narin Castle and an ancient desert ice house. The castle, still in remarkable condition, offered excellent views from its watchtowers. The ice house, around 800 years old, was designed to harvest and store ice even after winter, keeping the ice cool inside its mud structure until late spring or early summer.
After our day trips, we returned to Yazd, enjoying a few more days of leisurely exploration. Traveling at a slower pace allowed us to savor our experiences and meet new people. We were glad to have 32 days in Iran, giving us the luxury of time.
Next, we will head to Kerman, a holy city where we plan to visit mesmerizing desert formations and participate in Ashura. Stay tuned for more updates and stunning desert photos.