After our unforgettable time in the village of Arslanbob, we decided to head south to Osh, a bustling city of 300,000 people and the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan. Our goals in Osh were straightforward: team up with fellow backpackers to travel the Pamir Highway into Tajikistan, catch up on emails, explore the city, and prepare for the journey ahead.
Upon arriving at the Osh Guesthouse, we immediately checked out a massive whiteboard filled with transport requests from other travelers. We found a note that caught our eye: “Leaving September 23/24. Looking for people to share a ride from Osh to Murgab, via Ishkashim – Jason.” The timing wasn’t perfect for us since we wanted to leave a bit later, but we decided to meet Jason and his friend Jessica from Germany to see if they’d be good travel companions.
In no time, we decided to join forces and set an ambitious plan. We visited the Community Based Tourism (CBT) office in Osh to arrange a driver and vehicle, which would cost around $25 per day per person. Our journey was mapped out as follows: drive from Osh to Sary Mogul, visiting the Pik Lenin mountain; then head to Kara-Kul Lake, the highest lake in Central Asia; continue to Murgab in Tajikistan via Rang-Kul Lake; and allow flexibility to reassess our driver and vehicle before continuing along the Pamir Highway through the Wakhan Valley to Dushanbe.
We spent the next two days in Osh preparing, stocking up on food and water, withdrawing money, doing laundry, and exploring the city briefly. By September 24th, we were ready and eager to start our adventure. Although we had some initial hiccups—Jason got sick from some local dumplings, and our driver wasn’t who we expected—we managed to sort things out and began our journey.
As we drove to Sary Mogul, a thick fog obscured our view of Pik Lenin, but we remained optimistic. At our homestay in Sary Mogul, we got our first glimpse of the mountain and did a short trek at its base. We felt the altitude but were in awe of the picturesque village life.
The following day, we crossed the Kyzyl-Art Pass into Tajikistan. The border guards were a bit too friendly for comfort, but we managed to keep our cool. Continuing to Lake Kara-Kul, we enjoyed its stunning beauty despite a less-than-delicious dinner at our homestay. Reacting to a bout of food poisoning, we reevaluated our meal plan for the next leg of the journey.
We finally reached Murgab, thrilled to find decent accommodations and the META office to arrange the next part of our trip. Our new driver, Nurali, spoke English and had a good vehicle. We took a day trip to the Pshart Valley and the Madiyan natural hot springs, where Nurali proved his driving skills on treacherous roads.
The trek continued to Keng Shiber, where we enjoyed a starry night and trekked to an elevation of 4,600m the next day. We spotted the rare Marco Polo Sheep and soaked in the mesmerizing views of the Pamir Range and Zor-Kul Lake.
Travelling was relentless but rewarding. At Bulunkul, we admired the lakes and tackled a challenging hike up a nearby mountain. We saw breathtaking panoramas and enjoyed the hospitality of local families despite the cold.
The journey took us through Khargush Pass and into the lush Wakhan Valley. Langar, the most beautiful village, was our next stop, followed by exploring ancient petroglyphs and hiking to a historical fortress. We thoroughly enjoyed learning and experiencing the local culture.
Saturday at Ishkashim’s cross-border market with Afghanistan marked the near-end of our trip. We mingled with Afghan traders and relished in the cultural exchange. Our final destination was Khorog, a sizeable town that felt enormous after the small villages we’d been through. We celebrated with an Indian meal and reflected on our incredible journey.
Our Pamir Highway adventure concluded with an unexpected and thrilling helicopter ride to Dushanbe, which capped off our trip in the most extraordinary way. Travelling through the Pamir Mountains was an unforgettable experience, filled with stunning landscapes, new friendships, and countless stories that will stay with us forever.