Every winter for four days, Labrang Monastery in China’s Gansu province bursts into life with a stunning festival filled with color, music, and rich traditions. This event is deeply spiritual and rooted in centuries-old customs. Labrang, the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery outside the Tibetan Autonomous Region, attracts thousands of pilgrims who come to take part in the ceremonies, which mark the end of a prayer and meditation period known as Monlam, starting the Tibetan New Year.
One of the main highlights is the unfurling of a giant sacred painting down a hillside. Ritual dancers wear animal masks and perform for hours, while monks showcase intricate sculptures made entirely of yak butter.
The festival kicks off with the display of a massive thangka, a multicolored tapestry depicting Buddha, unfurled on a hill across the river from the monastery. Measuring 30 meters by 20 meters, it’s as tall as Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer statue! This event draws the largest crowds, but there’s plenty of space to find a good viewing spot.
At 10:00 am, the ceremony begins with a procession as monks carry the rolled-up thangka through the monastery streets. Pilgrims often reach out to touch it for blessings, while temple guards ensure its safe passage. About half an hour later, the thangka is carried up the hill and unrolled to the beat of drums and cymbals. Pilgrims bow and toss white silk scarves as offerings.
The atmosphere is relaxed, with many attendees focused on capturing the perfect photo. The thangka stays on display for around half an hour before being rolled up again, giving ample time for spectators.
On Day Two, the cham dance takes center stage, featuring performers in elaborate deity and demon costumes. Dubbed the “devil dance” by outsiders, this ritual is performed in front of the main hall. Arriving around 9:00 am guarantees a front-row seat. Local veterans recommend bringing a stool or cushion for the four-hour-long performance. The dance, slow and repetitive, is a meditative exercise for devout Buddhists.
After the dance, there’s a procession to a nearby village, followed by a bonfire and firecrackers to end the day’s rituals.
The third day showcases beautiful, intricate sculptures made of yak butter. Starting in the late afternoon, these sculptures are carefully assembled and displayed in front of the main hall. By 7 pm, a short ceremony kicks off the display. The monastery is roped off, and pilgrims can walk past the sculptures or watch on giant TV screens. Late-night visits offer shorter wait times and a more detailed view of the artwork.
The final ritual of Monlam is more subdued. Starting at 10:00 am, monks carry a statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha, around the monastery in a golden sedan chair. The procession involves banners, drums, and sacred images. Viewers should respect the tradition by not standing higher than the Buddha.
The four-day Monlam festival at Labrang Monastery is an unforgettable experience, showcasing spectacular rituals and the deep faith and pride of the pilgrims. For those traveling in China, a visit to this unique festival in Gansu province promises to be a highlight.
The thangka ceremony falls on the 13th day of the first month of the Chinese lunar calendar. In 2017, it was on February 9, and in 2018, it begins on February 28, with events continuing on March 1, 2, and 3.
To reach Labrang Monastery, buses to Xiahe leave from Lanzhou’s south bus station every few hours. The journey takes about six hours, and rooms at nearby hotels fill up quickly, so booking at least three weeks in advance is recommended. If closer hotels are fully booked, options further out, like the Holiday Weekend Hotel, are good alternatives.