Have you ever thought about hitting yourself with chains to remember someone who died over a thousand years ago? This might seem odd to many, but for most people in Iran, it happens every year. This period of mourning is called Ashura, or Muharram, and it commemorates the death of Imam Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.
Millions of Shia Muslims in the region take to the streets to mourn Imam Husayn ibn Ali ibn Abi Talib, who was starved and beheaded in Karbala, Iraq, in 680 A.D. The solemn parades and acts of self-flagellation offer a deep look into the intense culture of martyrdom in Iran. Crowds of men move slowly down the streets, whipping themselves with chains and crying openly for their hero from centuries ago.
These ceremonies last for 10 days, but the mourning can stretch on for two months. During this time, no music is played in the streets, and public happiness is frowned upon. The main 10-day commemoration ends on Ashura, the day when the crowds are at their largest. The synchronized sounds of clanging chains, rhythmic drumbeats, and sorrowful hymns fill the streets, creating a very somber atmosphere.
We were in Kerman for the final day of Ashura, and the atmosphere was filled with genuine sorrow, all centered around a holy man who died many years ago. Thousands of men sobbed openly, hitting themselves with chains in perfect rows while chanting ancient hymns through the closed-off streets. Women were just as sorrowful, praying silently on their knees with tears streaming down their cheeks. The intensity of the ceremony is beyond what words can describe.
It’s also important to note that many non-Muslim Iranians experience this period as a time of depression and dread. For weeks, Iran falls into a contagious gloom, which is a major inconvenience for non-Muslims. One non-Muslim Iranian girl told us that in Shiraz, a city usually known for its poetry and culture, all fun activities stop during Ashura.
As visitors, we found the ceremonies extremely interesting, but we could also see the hardships they impose on non-Muslim citizens. Ashura not only showed us the depth of faith in Iran but also gave us insight into the diverse religious landscape of the country.
Despite the somber tone, Ashura also has moments of generosity. In the evenings, the wealthy give to the poor by providing free meals. Restaurants and hotels cook massive amounts of food and distribute it on the streets. In Kerman, we participated in this part of Ashura by helping our hotel owner, who cooked a stew from six lambs and handed it out the next morning.
Overall, our experience with Ashura was mixed. We saw the enduring culture of martyrdom in Iran, witnessed an incredible level of faith, and learned about the experiences of non-Muslim Iranians during the ceremonies. Although it could sometimes feel overwhelmingly bleak, Ashura was an eye-opening event, and we’re glad to have witnessed it.
Can you imagine hitting yourself with chains to honor a fallen hero? Have you ever seen anything like this? How would you handle it as a non-Muslim local? Share your thoughts.